Ionian Odyssey, Part I

"Sing in me, Muse, and through me tell the story..."
Opening words of Homer's Odyssey, translated by Robert Fitzgerald, 1961

Tuesday, May 16

Athens, Greece

How to attempt to begin to describe the amazing past twentyfour hours? The best I can do is to attempt a travelogue of images, and maybe a few reflections.

After an uneventful flight from Boston to Zurich, we had a 10-hour layover in that airport. We could certainly have taken a bus and toured the city, but our exhaustion made us stay where we were. We slept for a few hours in a spotlessly clean and efficient “Day Hotel” right at the airport, and spent the rest of the time eating and people watching.

We arrived in Athens by 1:00 AM and were whisked past customs without a glance. Right across the street from the international terminal is the Sofitel, a luxury accommodation that costs a pretty penny and is worth it. We spent the rest of the night there and woke at 8:30 AM. Greek time is 7 hours later than Maine, so our internal clocks were completely confused.

Our flight to Zakynthos was scheduled for 5:00 PM, so this time we planned a day to see the Acropolis and whatever else we could find. An information attendant told us that, as there was a metro strike, our only option was to take a taxi into the city. And so the next adventure began.

Theodor

Our cab driver, Theodor, turned out to be outgoing and friendly, with a decent command of English. He offered a deal, “You know, it’s 38 euros flat rate to drive from the airport to Athens. You have to pay that again to return to the airport. If you pay me 100 euros, I will be your tour guide and will drive you all over the city, and take you back to the airport in time for your flight.” And so it was.

This was the first major city for these country mice, so we were a bit daunted by the crowds at the Acropolis, the long line for tickets, and the heat. We elected not to pay to go into the Acropolis itself, but took a few photos, admired the view, sent a few postcards, and returned to our cab through a side path under arching olive trees. Although the crowds, noise and litter dominated, we could still feel the ages of history that resonate in that place. The land has a nobility and a rich sweetness, the very air vibrates with energy and beauty. 

Acropolis, Athens, with crowds

Olives

Now Theodor proved our trust in him. He drove us all over the Athens- to a high hill with a panoramic view of the white buildings and red roofs of the city, around the Parliament building in time to see the changing of the guard, 

Greek guards and graffiti

then to his favorite souvlaki café off the beaten tourist trap, where we first encountered the stray cats of Greece.

Finally back to the airport, whence we flew to the island of Zakynthos in time to meet our hosts for dinner at a tavern across from Impala. The owner and his sons play live music every night. The evening passed in a happy daze.

Our boat awaits!

To be continued...